Thanks, Jim.

I still don't know if we'll do the package thing, as we really aren't interested in seeing everything we "have" to see. We're actually much more interested in seeing the people in places we visit, and the best way we've found doing that is going 'off the tour' and eating, shopping, etc, where the locals do.

On our last trip over, we bopped around Italy with Lonely Planet guide, an ItalRail pass and a phone card; no reservations, just wandered and when we wanted to change cities, phoned hotels in the next city and caught a train. It was a wonderful trip.

But thanks for the tip on getting off our butts and deciding what we're going to do soon.

And starting to memorize necessary phrases in Greek, of course.
(the essentials: Please, thank you, Hello, Goodbye, "Where is a bathroom?")

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